food – Pike & Hurricane

How Much Is The Fish? The Price of Overfishing

Merle Emrich — Tue, 21 Aug 2018 06:45:52 +0000

Fish is one of the most popular foods worldwide. Yet, the high demand and unsustainable fishing methods come at a price that might prove fatal for coastal fisher communities and indigenous peoples, as well as for the maritime ecosystem.

Within the Time Wave

Let me take you on a journey 30 years into the future. It is the year 2048 and the last fish has been pulled out of the sea. It is flapping on the deck of a huge fish trawler between algae and jellyfish the number of which has drastically increased over the last three decades. It is the result of an insatiable demand for fish and increasingly effective fishing vessels that have emptied the oceans. And true, for a while the fishing industry had been profitable but once fishing had reached a point where more fish were caught than the populations could naturally reproduce, its days were counted-and with it those of the balance of the oceans, the maritime ecosystem as we knew it.

Back to 2018. The EU is the world’s biggest importer of fish and most of it comes from developing countries. There, overfishing does not only threaten the balance of the oceans but also the social and economic situations of coastal communities that are based on and around fishing.

Culture on the Hook

During the mid-1900s a number of governments sought to increase the availability of protein-rich foods through an increased fishing capacity. The fishing industry was subsidised and favourable policies were agreed upon. Eventually, the fishing industry became so big and powerful that it began to replace local fishers. Through the competition of the fishing industry, and the rising number of fish being caught, the catch of local fishers was – and is – getting smaller and smaller leading to them being unable to sustain themselves which in turn not only leads to cultures and traditions disappearing, but also to problems, such as piracy, that are relevant for the Western world that at the moment still profits from a mass consumption of fish.

The life and traditions of many indigenous coastal communities are centred around fish and fishing. Fish is not only vital for them to sustain themselves, but also for their culture. The Swinomish Indian Tribal Community’s culture, for instance, is closely connected to the salmon and its migration. If the fish that these communities build their traditions around disappear, their cultures will disappear, also. And while many of these people only have small boats to use for fishing, the fishing industry uses highly developed equipment and large ships that move closer to shore lines and into native fishing areas as the number of fish in the ocean decreases, threatening traditions and the environment alike.

Always Look on the Bright Side

If we continue fishing the way we do right now, the oceans will probably be empty by 2048. But there are still enough fish in the seas, so that most species’ populations could be restored, scientists argue, and international actors such as the UN are trying to change things for the better by offering guidelines for sanctions against illegal fishing. On a European scale, the EU parliament has worked out a number of measures in order to battle overfishing in the North Sea. The common fisheries policies (CFP) is supposed to ensure fair competition among fishers and make fishing more sustainable, for example through catch limits between 2015 and 2020. But while it is a swimming stroke into the right direction, success is not guaranteed. And in addition, Great Britain is considering pulling out of the agreement as part of Brexit, making it one country less that takes the threat through overfishing seriously.

Responsibilities, however, do not only rest on the shoulders of political institutions. Companies, as well, have to be accountable for the consequences of their businesses. And some of them have already stepped up to the task. The Seafood Business for Ocean Stewardship (SeaBOS) is an initiative of nine Asian, European and US American companies to reform fishing practices. The surface of our overfished oceans might be churning, underneath, though, hope waits in the deep sea.

But while New Zealand, Australia and the US have shown that fishing reforms are possible and impactful much remains to be done. There are still many loopholes through which sanctions can be avoided and a lack of regulations put on commercial fishing. To prevent fish and indigenous traditions from dying out political institutions, the fishing industry and we, the consumers, need to sit in one boat. Effective laws must be past, restrictions put into place, and we need to see a change in the consumers’ attitude.

By Merle Emrich

Photo Credits

Trawler by Jon Anderson, CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Fish by Jeremy Keith, CC BY 2.0

The post How Much Is The Fish? The Price of Overfishing appeared first on Pike & Hurricane.

The Horrors of the Kanelbulle

Julia Glatthaar — Wed, 28 Mar 2018 14:52:16 +0000

Every country has a specific way in celebrating what people deem to be important, their national heritage, or just because everyone likes an excuse to party. Globally we celebrate events and movements such as international women’s day and with festivities expanded towards an ever growing range of bizarre holidays, there are also holidays like the international Winnie the Pooh Day on January, 18th that can be celebrated by everyone.

In Sweden, with Swedish people having an average of one to two fikas per day and eating around 316 kanelbullar (cinnamon buns) per year, it seems only natural to celebrate what represents Swedish culture at its best on October, 4th, the Kanelbulle Dag (Cinnamon Bun Day). However, do not let this little sweet, delicious, scrumptious pastry fool you! The kanelbulle has a dark past that is little known around Sweden. To let a bit more light into this grey zone of people’s minds, let us delve into this horror story together.

Colonialism, Exploitation and Cinnamon Cravings
Cinnamon may not directly spring into your mind as being the number one trade good that allowed for an increased European domination of the Indian Ocean in the late 16th century. However, this particular spice and the capture of the cinnamon trade was a priority goal amongst the European aristocracy.

Originally cinnamon was used to cover up the taste of foul meat during the winter and, more importantly, cinnamon was a mighty status symbol. Everybody who could afford this spice would make sure to have plenty of it on display to impress guests and friends during feasts.

Towards the end of the Middle Ages, the rising middle class soon began to pursue cinnamon as well and with rising demands, the race to capture the cinnamon trade monopoly was on!

Portugal was the first country to win this race and managed to take over Ceylon cinnamon production. They defended their monopol through cruel means- by enslaving the Sinhalese and by making sure that no competitor would take away their monopoly. Their methods would include measures such as sinking Arab dhows (trade ships) and hanging any possible European competition. This strategy did work for some time, until the Dutch forcefully took over the Portuguese production. For the local Sinhalese however little changed, some argue they were treated even worse by the Dutch than by their former Portuguese colonizers.

The colonizers changed flags once again in 1796 when the British arrived in Ceylon and displaced the Dutch from their control of the cinnamon monopol.

By the middle of the 19th Century the cinnamon market in Europe grew more “democratic”. Whilst there was an increase in production of 1000 tons a year, low quality cinnamon became more acceptable. Therefore cinnamon production sites were erected in a variety of locations, such as Brazil, the West Indies and Guyana and the era of the cinnamon monopoly came to an end.

Cinnamon – Sweden’s Grey Zone?

Sweden, the “lagom” country of Scandinavia, the neutral country during WWII, a country that you would probably not link to torture, slavery, exploitation and colonialism. Whilst Sweden did possess some small colonies overseas, this was a very small number compared to its European neighbours. Yet the Kanelbulle that became so popular in Sweden during the 18th century, and was made into the national holiday in 1999, is a product of Europe’s dark past, its colonial history.

So, next time you go out for some fika and get your favourite pastry, do think about where the Kanelbulle comes from and be aware of its bloody past.

By Julia Glatthaar

Pictures:

Image by Gabby Canonizado, Stranded for a While_B&W, Attribution 2.0 Generic (CC BY 2.0)

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The Global Happy Meal

Marise Ayoung — Fri, 28 Feb 2014 14:20:23 +0000

It is one of the largest restaurant chains in the world spanning 116 countries, 34,000 restaurants and employing 1.8 million people worldwide. McDonald’s has become synonymous with fast food and the brand has infiltrated the world. My own experience with the fast food giant is somewhat different. In my home country of Trinidad and Tobago, McDonald’s was reintroduced only two years ago after closing down in 2003 due to low sales. As for their hefty human resources total of 1.8 million employees, that figure trumps the entire population of my country. Yet there is more to the chain’s story than enabling millions of fast food junkies. Behind the golden arches logo lays a deeper association that many of us tend to ignore when biting into a juicy Big Mac. The fast food royalty can be tied to more profound claims of modernity representation, cultural imperialism and global consumerism.

The global reach of the company was confirmed when “The Big Mac Index” was first propelled to fame in 1986. The Economist suggested that the value of national currencies could be measured by comparing the prices of a Big Mac across the globe. The term is still used to this day making economic theory easier to understand for the everyday man and giving tourists a benchmark for the cost of living in their desired destinations. A few years later, in 1996, Thomas Friedman put forth his theory, riddled with satire, suggesting that no two countries that were home to a McDonald’s franchise had ever gone to war with each other. According to Friedman “…people in McDonald’s countries don’t like to fight wars; they like to wait in line for burgers.” As ridiculous as the theory sounded, at the time it was found to be true. In 1999, however, the war between India and Pakistan over Kashmir refuted the theory.

The entrance of the fast food dynasty is symbolic of a host country’s entry into the global capitalist market and its unification with the rest of the world. It can be seen as a symbol of reaching modernity and attaining a stable economy. Vietnam is the newest member of the Big Mac joining this month on February 8 with its first restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City. The New York Times reported on the fast food chain’s introduction in the Vietnamese market, claiming “It was inevitable, consultants said, that more American brands would enter the country once the economics looked more appealing. Vietnam’s per capita income rose to $1,550 in 2012 from $1,000 in 2008, according to World Bank estimates, and inflation has stabilized.” The new franchise owners of McDonald’s Trinidad and Tobago is Arcos Dorados, the largest McDonald’s franchisee in the world in terms of system- wide sales and number of restaurants. Trinidad marketing manager for Arcos Dorados, Milagros Bermudez, remarked on the Trinidadian economy stating, “We discovered that it was pretty stable here. Also, it’s amazing all the options that local people have here and we were missing that. Trinidad is very important to us and we are looking forward in investing in this island. The money we have invested in this process… we don’t put a number. We are sure we’ll make it back.”

Key to the success of the chain is its precise marketing schemes that not only tap into the native markets but covert local tastes to favour Western–styled fast food. Techniques used by McDonald’s to establish their brand locally include the adoption of local flavours and dishes to their menu. For example in India, there are no beef products on the menu due to the prevalence of Hinduism. Instead, patrons can purchase a McAloo Tikki Sandwich where the typical burger patty is swapped for a potato alternative. Some may admire this approach taken by the corporation and applaud it as cultural sensitivity. However, some may consider this infiltration a mark of cultural imperialism. The new type of food offered by the outlet can be viewed as modern and fashionable, which may mean trouble for local vendors and home cooking. According to Markus Taussig, an assistant business professor at the National University of Singapore and a former Vietnam resident, “McDonald’s in Vietnam is going to be packed with parents, many of whom will not be eating because the food doesn’t appeal to them but who will be happy because watching their kids munch away on burgers makes them feel they’re part of something positive and modern.”

The secret sauce to the success of the food chain is not only its marketing strategy but also its combination with mounting global consumerism. Globalisation has encouraged not only quick and easy travel and open markets but its effect has manifested a global culture of fast food fixes and global Happy Meals. The trend is now toward the development of a universal culture and although the space between civilisations is closing, the bridge is being made of fries and not as a product of real cultural exchange.

So how is McDonald’s coping in Trinidad and Tobago? Over the last two years, five new McDonald’s restaurants have been opened in the country and business seems to be flourishing in the island whose area totals 5,128 km². In true McDonald’s fashion, the marketing scheme by the new Latin American franchise holder, Arcos Dorados, incorporated local appreciation for spices and offered novel services. McCafé fulfils coffee needs, Auto Mac allows for “drive-thru” access, PlayPlace offers an area for children’s entertainment and the DessertCentre satisfies sweet tooth cravings. Additionally the chain offers the “Fresh” line of menu items that provides healthier alternatives such as salads and fruit with Happy Meals. The same company thus satisfies the needs of multiple patrons with varying tastes. I wondered how we ever survived before their arrival and then I remembered – we cooked most of our food at home, we rarely drank coffee in 35 degree Celsius weather, our children played outside in the savannahs and dessert was centred around homemade coconut ice cream.

It would seem that the cost of diminishing local cultures by capitalist incentives could be found on the Dollar Menu. Although the effects of fast food chains around the world are discreet, they are still present. We really do need to ask ourselves “Am I Lovin’ It?”

By Marise Ayoung

Image credit:

Picture 1&2: Mike Mozart, licensed under CC BY 2.0

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